The 18th-century version gives way to the Ralph Lauren design that actress Lupita Nyong’o showed off at Golden Globe after-parties this year.
By Sue Robinson
Many fall trend reports point to the cape as a must-have outer garment for 2014.
Showing up in all sorts of lengths, styles, colors and effects, the modern cape, whether trimmed in fox or fringe, made in smooth camel wool or a nubby woven, fits every taste. Ralph Lauren even showed a dramatic column evening dress and built-in cape ensemble in daring lipstick red.
Today’s cape is yesterday’s cloak.
The cloak was a wardrobe staple in one style or another from the first settlers’ arrival until the arrival of the 19th century. It crossed income levels and genders.
“Women typically wore hooded cloaks (the term for what we call a “cape”) as their main outer garment,” says Linda Baumgarten, Curator of Textiles and Costumes at Colonial Williamsburg.
“Although the reasons for this fashion varied, it was mostly for practicality, since a fitted coat would have crushed the ruffles at the sleeves and weighed down the full skirts with ruched and gathered trimmings.,” she says “The hood on the cloak could be made generous in size to fit over a big hat or hairstyle. As neoclassicism changed the silhouette, more women took to wearing coat-like pelisses.”
Most surviving 18th-century cloaks were scarlet wool, sometimes lined with colorful materials.
There were many different shapes and lengths, falling anywhere from the hips to the feet. Most outdoor cloaks were about three-quarter length. Many women’s cloaks had a functional warm hood attached. They came in a variety of textiles and cuts.
On particularly chily days, the cloak might be paired with a large handkerchief, or kerchief, worn around the shoulders. By the late 18th century, women adopted the new fashion for shawls.
This winter, blanket dressing is a current idea that nods to yesteryear. The tactic is to layer multiple throws, capes, shawls and ponchos to fight the chill. Seen on runways, from Burberry to Chanel, are models wearing oversized scarves, wraps and plaids that look like they’ve been pulled off the bedstead and thrown on over a cape or cloak or poncho.
WANT TO SEE MORE?
Elle: 14 Ways to Get the Cape Look
Vogue: C is for Capes and Cloaks
In honor of Fashion Week in New York, which began September 4 and continues this week, we’ll look at what influenced colonial fashion — and the 18th-century imprint we still see in designs today. In case you missed it, here’s Monday’s story. Tomorrow: Aprons.
Judy mcclurd says
I was a visitor last year. I fell in love with the womens cloak. Can these be purchased over the phone and shipped to me? Also, I’d be interested in one for a 13year old. Is there a phone number that you can give me so that I might call and talk with a sales person ? Thank you.